Fat in Omaha: Varsity Sports Café & Roman Coin Pizza
Although sports bars fall into the “not for me” category, pizza is very much my thing, so I found myself checking out the newest location of this area chain on a recent Saturday afternoon in Dundee. The 14 or so televisions didn’t help my ability to make conversation, but the servers’ outfits provided some entertainment. Just like belly shirts in the ’90s, wearing tights with no skirt/shorts is a privilege, not a right. Hopefully they stimulated some manly men to tip extra based on their behinds and bosoms. I chose to fixate instead on the ample assortment of draft beers, a slightly dented grand piano in the corner, and the traffic on Dodge.
The wings were suspiciously huge with extra white meat, like no other wings I’ve ever had the pleasure of staining my cheeks orange with. Apart from the freakishness, they tasted good, but the sauce was only of average hotness, despite our cocky request for “as hot as possible.” The pizza uncannily reminded me of what you’d get at Chuck E. Cheese. But, the crust was thin and the cheese was browned, which is more than you can say about some local pizza chains. I could get in the mood for this again. They also reportedly offer a decent deep dish.
"Frankenwings" with Side of Ranch
The Traditional Sub was an assemblage of mediocre-quality ingredients: Bland bread, bargain ham and salami, and one very sad tomato. The crinkle-cut fries were whatever. The startling thing about this sub is that somehow, it WORKED! It just goes to show that a half dozen crappy ingredients can sometimes equal one edible sandwich.
Traditional Sub: Ham, salami, mozzarella, hot peppers, lettuce and tomato
Sysco ketchup: Heavy on the corn syrup
Roman Coin Pizza isn’t shy about their use of Sysco products. Plopping corn syrup ketchup right on the table moves against the trend of “local” and “organic,” but I say, why even bother trying to hide it?
We’ll barely even notice with our eyes glued to the waitress’ ass game on TV.
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Varsity Sports Cafe & Roman Coin Pizza • 4900 Dodge Street (plus three other Omaha locations) • 402-934-9439 • 11 a.m-midnight seven days a week; bar open till 2 a.m.
